Saturday was a MUCH better day than Friday, despite teh terrible weather. I was up by seven and ate the provided breakfast (two slices of bread, jam, and a small bowl of cornflakes), then showered. The hostel was weird in that you couldn’t leave your stuff in the room between 10am and 2pm so they could clean; you had to put it in a locker room downstairs. So I moved my stuff, then set out in truly miserable weather.
One crummy thing about Brussels is that they don’t really have shelter ANYWHERE. There aren’t covered benches (I guess I could have sat at a bus stop), so I had no choice but to keep walking almost the entire day. At one point, when I got so hungry I HAD to eat, I bought a waffle and took a seat in the “Passage du Nord,” this sort of indoor arcade with open ends (truly beautiful; look at the pictures) and all these expensive shops (I bought my truffles in there). This policeman walked by and motioned to me to get up as though I was an idiot for even trying to sit down. Well maybe Brussels should invest in some covered benches! So I wandered around this cute little market that sprang up in covered tents around a fountain across the street. but I was not happy about having to walk and eat my waffle. That said, the waffle was delicious and I could totally go for another one right now.
I first hit the big Cathedral, which is absolutely gorgeous; looks architecturally a lot like Wesminster, though obviously a LOT smaller. After the arcade (that I explained before), I found the Grand Market that had been recommended to me and was truly overwhelmed. You walk into this huge square and are surrounded by some of the most amazing buildings I’ve ever seen in my life. You can look at the pictures but even those don’t do them justice. I’m sure there’s more in good weather, but for the time being there were a few flower stands set up in the center. Restaurants occupy some of the buildings and spill out into the center. You feel like you’re in the 18th century. The wood and stone carvings are glorious. It’s also, I’m pretty sure, the only square in the city; all the other streets in the city twist and turn and curve horribly.
Continued to wander around and got my souvenir shopping done. All the streets surrounding the Grand Market are cute little shops (HUNDREDS of chocolate shops; some cool toy stores). Souvenir shops all seemed to be run by old men and woman who spoke only French; all snack shops were run by Greeks or Turks. I was very proud that several of my transactions were made entirely in French, though any longer conversation I’m just not capable of yet. I saw the Mannekin-Pis and was utterly unimpressed. The fountain is teeny-tiny, shoved into this corner. And it’s just a little boy peeing into a fountain. I took pictures but thought it pretty sad if that’s what your city is famous for.
Found myself, as usual, right next to some political march. I’m still not sure what they were marching for, but I know Belgium is a political hotbed lately. So watched them pass, but then I needed to sit for a while, so I wound up buying a croissant from the only bakery I could find and sitting in the window, people watching. Overall, though, the people weren’t that different from any other European city. Ethnically diverse; mostly French speaking; lots of tourists around the hot spots like the Grand Market. With nothing else to do, I went back to the hostel and napped to let my feet dry out and change jeans, then set out with the intention of finding a cafe to just chill in and write for a bit.
Unfortunately, despite being a very French country, there are NO cafes! They combine cafes with restaurants and/or bars, but I didn’t want to sit in a restaurant or bar. I literally wandered around for a little under two hours, looking for just a cup of coffee when who should happen to be yelling my name but Sam, David, and their little group. I was so excited to see them, if only because by this point I was cold, wet, tired, and BADLY in need of some coffee.
So me, Sam, and David wandered around until meeting up with everyone else at seven. We checked out some comic shops, photographed the giant comic murals painted on buildings throughout the city, got photographed by some random lady when we danced to the music of some street band. We made faces at cute dogs and babies, engaged in umbrella wars with unsuspecting locals. Sam bought escargot at a cart set up by the Mannekin-Pis, insisting King Albert ate escargot from that stall so it had to be good. I tried a piece and LOVED it; who would have guessed I would love escargot? The three of us had great fun, though I’ve come to the conclusion why I think you can’t really get to know a culture when you’re traveling with friends. When you’re with friends, at least of your own culture, you’re too introverted with each other; everything you see and hear and do is in relation to your own shared culture. You aren’t people watching or noticing minute details of the city around you. Nonetheless, I was glad I met up with them and had a blast being a stupid American tourist for a bit.
I managed to get us back to the meeting point (they had no navigational sense whereas I already knew the city extremely well). Once everyone arrived, we had a drink (not me; not wasting my money on alcohol!), then went to dinner at an adorable restaurant in the city center, which in the evening has its narrow streets swallowed up by the lavishly decorated tables of one quaint restaurant after another, each boasting oysters, lobsters, or chicken. The restaurant we finally settled on had a three-course for 12euro50 deal. The owner was this adorable little Frenchman who even brought the sign in from outside to explain to our party of ten; he really adored us, probably because Blake spoke French well enough to really converse with him. That and we were bringing in the money.
Dinner was enjoyable. I had fried cheese, chicken, potatoes, and then a caramel flan. It was HUGE meal for me, but I was just grateful to not be eating peanut butter and jelly for once, you know? And it was extremely yummy; totally worth the money, I thought. We spent dinner discussing movies and actors. I enjoyed making new acquaintaces, since Sam and David were really the only ones of the group I knew beforehand. To keep things simple, everyone just gave me cash and we put it all on my credit card (I didn’t have enough cash). That’s going to be a lovely bill, let me tell you.
Afterwards, all of us went to the Delirium bar, which is famous for having over 2000 beers or some jazz like that. I don’t know that I totally believe that. Anyways, a band was going to play (didn’t until after I’d left), so the bar was INSANELY crowded. Dinner had been expensive so I didn’t want to spend any more money, but I went just to hang out with everyone. We were packed in the bar like sardines. David and I wound up pressed into a corner, our space more and more infringed upon as the guy behind me grew drunker and drunker. David himself got a little fuzzy; we had a lovely conversation about relationships, haha. However, the noise and lack of space in the bar paired with my lack-of-caffeine headache (I never did get my coffee) finally got bad enough that I left a little before midnight.
Walking home alone after dark wasn’t nearly as shady as I had feared. The city actually, in some ways, feels nicer after dark when you can’t see all the graffiti and trash anymore, when fewer people are out, when people aren’t so boisterous. The boys offered to walk me home, but I was fine and made it back to my hostel only to face plant in bed, exhausted. After all, I’d left my hostel at about 9am and walked around almost all day. It was a good day, though.